Technology trends shaping fashion

Clothes and shoes are about to get a digital update, at least in Europe. 

The European Union formally adopted the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation, or ESPR, in June. The legislation empowers the European Commission to set specific sustainable and ethical design and reporting requirements for nearly all products sold on the European market, including textiles and apparel items, detailed in the EU’s Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles.

One key requirement is the Digital Product Passport, often abbreviated DPP. These digital tags will provide easy links to an online database of information including materials tracing and manufacturing information.

The details of what will be required in each DPP will be established by the European Commission by December 31, 2025, according to a webinar given in May. Businesses will have 18 months following that date to comply. Because the ESPR requirements apply to nearly all products placed on the European market, this means that even the smallest businesses will need to learn how to create and implement this technology.

What do DPPs look like? 

“The principal objective of the digital product passport is to enable and simplify access to relevant information,” William Neale, circular economy adviser in the European Commission’s Directorate General of environment, said in the May webinar. 

This means creating a Digital Product Passport is about more than generating a QR code, said supply chain tracking technology company TrusTrace in a new report on DPPs. The information carrier, which might be a QR code, RFID tag, NFC tag, or watermark, is just the final piece of technology that gives customers and other users access to this data.

What information is required?

In its report, TrusTrace identified 125 potential data points companies might need to address, according to ESPR guidelines. The points cover nine categories and will include information such as supply chain details, material composition, as well as information on a product’s circularity, compliance and sustainability (the latter framed within the bounds of the EU’s anti-greenwashing legislation, the Green Claims Directive).

Rather than wait for full details to be released at the end of 2025,TrusTrace said brands should establish a list of potential data points now so that they can begin collecting data.

Eventually, the type of data will be standardized, although the storage of DPP data will be “decentralized”, according to the ESPR text. That means each company is responsible for maintaining its own online repository of information and making that available to consumers and other parties. Failure to comply will result in penalties, according to the law’s final text, which could “include fines and time-limited exclusion from public procurement procedures.”

How to get started

TrusTrace is involved in an ongoing DPP pilot project launched in 2022 with Finnish textile company Marimekko and Swedish clothing brand Kappahl. Based on the pilot, which processed more than 3,000 garments, TrusTrace said in its report that the first step for brands is to evaluate whether they are currently collecting the data needed to comply with these new regulations. Then brands will need to determine when and where in the production process they want to collect data and how this data will be stored and accessed. Once brands better understand this process, they can then reach out to data management companies.

Through its pilot program, TrusTrace found that neither brand had all of the potential data points, and both brands said in the report that “obtaining the DPP data for the pilot was, in some cases, resource intensive and difficult.”

To implement Digital Product Passports successfully, data collection will need to be baked into supply chains, Marjut Lovio, sustainability manager at Marimekko, said in the report. 

“From my perspective, in order to pull all the data from a complex supply chain we need agents in between [stakeholders] to take care of the data management,” Marimekko said. “Of course, technology can solve some of these problems, but at the moment the data is manually keyed in by people.”

Marimekko is also “keeping an eye for the development of several options, from ‘forensic’ fibre-level physical tracers, through to software solutions,” according to the report. 

Integrating DPPs may also affect production. Both brands in the TrusTrace pilot program had to work with their manufacturers to make sure that individual QR codes both brands were using could be sewn onto each type of garment, given that the same care tag is normally sewn onto larger batches of garments. 

DPP pricing

It isn’t possible to broadly estimate the price of implementing DPPs, according to a 2024 study funded by the European Commission to investigate the costs and benefits of DPPs for small to medium enterprises. 

“The multitude of options and elements to be considered require a thorough case-by-case calculation,” according to the report.

This is due in part to the newness and complexity of services involved, along with an unwillingness on the part of data management companies to pin down prices at this time, according to the EC study.

In addition to TrusTrace, European data management companies that offer DPP creation for the fashion industry include Vaayu, Protokol, Iimpcoll and Blue Cromos. Protokol said they would not be able to share a price list because costs were highly variable.

“As the shape of every business is unique, pricing can depend on a number of factors and vary as a result,” Lars Rensing, CEO of Protokol said in an email to Fashion Dive. 

Helping a company create a roadmap for implementing DPP could take three to six working weeks, an Iimpcoll spokesperson said in an email to Fashion Dive. They declined to state specific prices. 

TrusTrace also declined to state details about prices, saying that costs are dependent on the business size and scope of work needed.

Vaayu offers up to 50 SKUs for free and per-DPP prices starting at 3,000 Euros, or about $3,280 at current exchange rates, a Vaayu spokesperson said in an email to Fashion Dive. 

“We also offer a free DIY DPP solution to ensure DPPs are attainable for all retail brands and businesses, in line with our mission to serve companies industry-wide,” the Vaayu spokesperson said.

Integrating the data into a DPP might cost around $100 per hour, Fredrik Malm and Josefin Lainevoo of BlueCromos told Fashion Dive in an email. But that assumes the data is already collected and available. 

It is also possible that the European Commission might require DPP service providers to obtain certification, although it’s not yet clear what the criteria for such certification will be, said Holger Berg, vice-director of circular economy and co-head of research on digital transformation at the Wuppertal Institute, a sustainability think tank based in Germany. 

Potential upsides

Both Kappahl and Marimekko said that there were benefits to implementing the DPP protocols, per the TrusTrace report. Not only do DPPs level the playing field and help fight greenwashing by standardizing sustainability comparisons, but they could be used as a tool to augment storytelling to consumers, both companies said in the report.. 

“With DPPs the sustainability communication to customers will become more streamlined,” Sandra Roos, vice president of sustainability at Kappahl, said in an email to Fashion Dive. “The Kappahl Group sees a big opportunity for customers using DPP to make better purchasing decisions.”

While burdensome at first, the fine-grained tracking of product data required by DPPs will not only ensure compliance with regulations, but will also help brands optimize inventory, protect themselves from counterfeiting and run better supply chains, Anja Sadock, head of marketing at TrusTrace, said in an email to Fashion Dive.

“If you think about it — having real-time production data across your entire portfolio — brings a world of opportunity,” Sadock said.“Having comprehensive supply chain data and a dynamic network view allows brands to proactively manage their supply chains to anticipate risks and prevent business disruptions. This enables them to act faster and with the right measures to reduce downtime and maintain operations.”

Diesel recently discovered and confiscated 43,905 counterfeit 1 DR-style handbags at a warehouse in China, according to a Monday release sent to Fashion Dive.

The fake items featured the logo of the OTB-owned brand, and were recovered in Wuqia, Xinjiang, under the supervision of the General Administration of Customs. Support for the operation was provided by both Diesel and Wuqia police units, per the release.

In related news, OTB will begin certifying and registering products in its Jil Sander, Maison Margiela and Marni products beginning with its fall-winter 2024 collections, according to a separate release sent to Fashion Dive.

Since spring-summer 2017, Diesel has had a product authentication system in place to guarantee authenticity of all its jeans, and that system was extended to include the rest of the company’s merchandise in fall-winter 2021, according to the company’s website.

Diesel’s products are equipped with a QR code and a 12-digit numerical code that confirm the product’s authenticity and origin. Customers are able to scan the code and check a product’s authenticity via technology provided by digital certification company Certilogo, which has also worked with brands such as Versace, Stone Island, Heron Preston and Off White.

In its press release Diesel stated that it “continually monitors the global marketplace” to track the sale and production of fake Diesel goods and content, both to protect the brand’s intellectual property and to ensure customers aren’t sold counterfeit merchandise.

“This operation represents a significant victory in Diesel’s ongoing efforts to combat counterfeiting,” the company said. “Counterfeit goods not only undermine legitimate businesses but also pose serious risks to consumer safety and international economies.”

The company added that it would “continue to take action against counterfeiting to safeguard its intellectual property rights and reputation in every market.”

OTB is also a founding member of the Aura Blockchain Consortium, was created with the intention of using blockchain technology to provide consumers with a traceability and transparency framework. Other members include LVMH, Prada Group and Richemont-owned Cartier.

Regarding registration for its three high-end lines, OTB said in the corresponding release that it was the first consortium member to provide “a digital authenticity certificate for all the products of its luxury brands, with full integration of blockchain registration in its production processes and the insertion of an NFC chip in every garment or accessory.”

“This is an important advance in the OTB innovation process, because it enables us to guarantee greater transparency, new ways of interaction and an increasingly high-profile experience for our luxury brands’ clients,” Stefano Rosso, CEO of Marni and a member of the Aura Blockchain Consortium board, said in the release. “Full-scale adoption of blockchain technology and its integration with our production processes means we shall be able to respond promptly to all the challenges and opportunities presented by future legislation.”

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Supply chain traceability platform TrusTrace has upgraded its Forced Labor Prevention Solution, which uses AI to help companies map their supply chains, screen for risks and gather data for regulatory compliance, according to a news release Tuesday.

In its release, TrusTrace said its Force Labor Prevention Solution is different from other systems that utilize third-party data that “can introduce large quantities of irrelevant information from various sources, creating ‘noise’ that can obscure critical insights and quickly become unmanageable.” It additionally said it proactively screens the data for risk against the U.S. Customs and Border Protection entity list.

Shameek Ghosh, CEO of TrusTrace, said in the release that its solution was its commitment “to a world where transparency and ethical practices in supply chains are non-negotiable.”

“Ensuring that forced labor has no place in our global economy is critical, and with our solution, brands can proactively and confidently lead the way in this imperative transformation, instead of merely ensuring they have a solution for the release of detained shipments,” Ghosh said. “With a proactive approach to supply chain data brands can be in the drivers’ seat not only for tackling forced labor but for multiple supply chain challenges, as well as opportunities, something that leading brands are already doing today.” 

The tool uses AI to create a chain of custody and document collection, and collects primary data from suppliers about facilities, products and materials. This drives speed, accuracy and cost savings and reduces “the likelihood of human error” in manual processes, TrusTrace said.

The company said 15 brands have begun using the tech, including Vera Bradley. 

Ayfer Yarcich, Vera Bradley’s director of global sourcing, said in the release that sourcing responsibly is core to its business.

“Mapping our supply chain and gathering purchase order data is a critical step in this journey,” Yarcich said. “By integrating TrusTrace's upgraded FLP solution, we are not only working towards a transparent and forced labor-free supply chain but also aspiring to set a new standard in responsible and sustainable business practices.”

To date, the company said it has traced more than two million purchase orders and has mapped more than 55,000 suppliers and facilities globally.

Sweden-based TrusTrace was founded in 2016. In January of this year, it landed a $24 million growth investment. At the time, the company said it would use the new funding to “accelerate its global expansion ambitions by strengthening its presence in key markets.”

Reju, a textile-to-textile-regeneration company owned by technology firm Technip Energies, opened its first manufacturing facility this week, according to a press release sent to Fashion Dive.

The Frankfurt, Germany-based plant is expected to produce 1,000 metric tons of the company’s proprietary product, called Reju Polyester, CEO Patrik Frisk said at a Wednesday event announcing the initiative. Reju expects to begin deliveries in 2025, per the release, although no brand partners have been announced yet.

Frisk said the company plans to open two additional plants by 2027 — one in Europe and one in the U.S. — each with the capacity to produce 50,000 metric tons of Reju’s recycled polyester, which is expected to have a 50% lower carbon footprint than virgin polyester.

Launched last year, Reju is focused on polyethylene terephthalate (PET) textile recycling, using technology developed through a partnership with IBM, Under Armour and Technip Energies. This technology acts as a molecular sorter, potentially allowing PET textiles to be “regenerated infinitely,” according to a press release announcing the company’s launch.

Reju will “guarantee textile-to-textile traceability from textile waste that would otherwise be buried, burnt or dumped,” per the release, which noted that the Frankfurt facility, called Regeneration Hub Zero, is the company’s first major milestone toward that goal.

“The world produces 92 million tons of textile waste each year, yet less than 1% is recycled,” Frisk said in the release. “It is a system that extracts finite resources creating textile waste with no responsibility for end-of-life. Reju is going to change that by unlocking a new system through critical partnerships around the world.”

Frisk is a fashion industry veteran. Prior to joining Reju, he was CEO of Under Armour Inc., CEO of Aldo Group and held executive leadership roles at VF Corp. including president of Timberland and vice president and general manager of The North Face.

Reju parent company Technip Energies is an engineering and technology firm specializing in sustainable chemistry, hydrogen solutions, and CO2 management, per the release.

Recycled leather company Gen Phoenix isn’t chasing a marketing claim.

“Recycled leather” is a broad term, and as a category, it isn’t well defined, even though it is advancing quickly, according to John Kennedy, Gen Phoenix’s CEO.

“But there’s an underlying piece around this, which is around authenticity, and the genuineness around the environmental story, and this is the evolving piece within the recycled leather space,” Kennedy said.

Gen Phoenix’s technology deconstructs leather waste into new leather fibers to form a raw material. The company markets its material as having similar characteristics to traditional leather, but with an 85% lower carbon footprint and availability at scale. The company also aims for the material to cost no more than traditional leather, so the product is what it calls “price neutral” to the consumer and protects the margins of its brand partners.

When considering recycled leather, Kennedy said there are two different approaches. He said some companies are making a product labeled as “recycled” for a marketing purpose, though he didn’t name specific companies. Other companies, he said, make recycled leather for an environmental and functional purpose. The latter is the space Gen Phoenix wants to work in.

One of the company’s internal sayings is “every fiber has a function,” so it operates on the thought that every piece of each material used is deliberate, and contributes to either the performance or aesthetic of the material.

Gen Phoenix initially debuted its material in the mass transportation seating category, making leather for aviation, rail and bus seats. In recent years, it has expanded its focus to take on the world of fashion. 

This work is different, Kennedy said, because in fashion, leather is more about haptics, feel and luxury.

The company worked with Tapestry-owned Coach last year on the launch of its sub-brand Coachtopia, which includes products made from recycled leather. Then in March, Dr. Martens unveiled a line of boots made with Gen Phoenix’s material, called Genix Nappa. Beyond the capsule, Dr. Martens is incorporating Gen Phoenix’s material into future collections, according to Gen Phoenix.

“The brands that we talk to and we partner with, they value the authenticity and the reputation and credibility that we have,” Kennedy said.

Editor’s note: This conversation has been edited for brevity and clarity.

FASHION DIVE: What are some characteristics you look for in a fashion brand partner?

JOHN KENNEDY: It actually comes down to a shared purpose and really having genuine, aligned values around what you’re trying to achieve.

Half of the solution is getting the material to perform and meet the needs of the brand to make sure that it works. But the other part is actually the change management piece, where your material is replacing a material that has been around for decades, if not centuries. A lot of the standards, the manufacturing processes, and how it’s designed is all based on how [traditional] leather performs today. 

Particularly with the first application and the first season, there’s an awful lot of learning and change that goes on with the brand. To give credit to Dr. Martens, they’ve been fabulous at that. They’ve been fabulous partners. We work really closely with them. This level of openness and collaboration is a really key ingredient.

What does Gen Phoenix want to accomplish in the near-term?

Scaling up as a business, and making sure that we continue to expand season on season with our brand partners. Expanding into more brand partners, and into more markets, so that we can continue that journey of increasing our impact on society. As we go through those collaborations, we learn, and we iterate, and we get better. And it’s really integrating those learnings on that journey toward full circularity at scale.

What are you focusing on in the long term?

The product portfolio that we have today, and the technology that we have today, is a step in [the circularity at scale] journey. But ultimately, we’re working on solutions that will be able to bring end-of-life products back in to be re-lifed within our own process. Whether that’s leather waste that they’re using today in a shoe or something, or even our own material that comes back again. That’s really our North Star, and our vision about where we’re trying to get to, whilst maintaining the price, performance, planet [mindset]. Having those two things together, we think, is really what unlocks for us an amazing business, but more importantly, an amazing impact.

What is a common misconception of the work you do?

A lot of alternative material suppliers or companies, the first thing they do is trash talk leather. [They say] “Leather is no good, and it’s bad for the planet.” And, you know, “cows are bad” and everything else. That’s not where we are. Genuinely, I think leather is a sustainable material in terms of, it’s a byproduct from the meat industry. We’re not anti-leather. Our philosophy is, “how do we keep waste out of the ground?” 

We started with leather, and we may well transition at other stages in our company’s evolution to other waste sources which aren’t leather. But today, it’s leather. There’s a big need and opportunity there. 

We would love to work more closely with the leather industry, about how we jointly solve [these problems] and work together to have a genuine, authentic recycling leather product that goes alongside the virgin leather that’s coming out from the tanneries as well. I think there’s an opportunity there that is missing. It’s incumbent upon us and our friends and colleagues in the leather space about how we can get close and work together on this. We’re friends of leather, we think it’s a great material. We just want to keep it in service for longer and keep it out of the ground.

Weaving technology company Unspun announced Monday a $32 million Series B funding round, according to a press release. The funding, led by technology venture capital firm DCVC, will be used to help scale production of Unspun’s 3D weaving machinery, called Vega. The technology was designed “to help brands realize a low-inventory, nearshore and automated supply-chain for woven products,” per the release.

The new funding will be used to help Unspun scale its technology and will allow the company to localize apparel manufacturing across North America and Europe, said CEO Walden Lam in the release.

Unspun’s Vega machine can weave a pair of pants in about 10 minutes directly from yarn, according to a news release previously sent to Fashion Dive. The company said in its latest release that this process facilitates practically zero-waste, on-demand manufacturing and low-inventory production.

Last year, California-based Unspun received $14 million a Series A funding round, which it used to open a microfactory designed to demonstrate its woven-on-demand production capabilities and serve as its headquarters.

“Because 3D weaving drastically shortens supply chains and lead times, brands and manufacturers can plug these machines into existing supply chains for localized and automated production,” the company said. “This opportunity allows traditional cut-make-trim facilities to vertically integrate operations.”

Unspun added in the release that the process also offered 53% emissions reduction, 49% reduced energy demand and 39% reduced blue water consumption over traditional processes.

“Overproduction has long been a taboo in fashion,” Lam said in the release. “It is now recognized by top-tier climate-funds as a key issue to urgently solve for the industry.”

Walmart has already signed a multi-year agreement with the company, and Unspun said it has similar deals with “multiple top retailers” to use Vega machines for local production in North America and Europe. 

Current and proposed legislative directives limiting textile waste may force fashion brands to look more closely at inventory production and supply chain transparency. Technology such as Unspun’s weaving machines and Debrand’s new AI-assisted textile recycling facility in Columbus, Ohio, are part of a larger effort to help the industry solve some of its overproduction problems.

Woven products represent 57% of the total apparel market, according to Unspun’s release.

“[Unspun] offers a tremendous economic and logistical unlock for the fashion industry by eliminating costly overproduction and radically shortening the supply chain,” Milo Werner, general partner at DCVC, said in the release. “We think it's good business to align profits and climate impact and are excited to help unspun revolutionize the way clothing is made.”

Werner will join Unspun’s board of directors, and venture capital firms Lowercarbon Capital, E12 and SOSV, as well as revenue-based financing investor Decathlon, also participated in the funding round, per the release.