Dive Brief:
- Neiman Marcus and LVMH-owned fashion house Loewe launched a limited-edition capsule collection, according to a press release last week.
- The collaboration features 19 pieces designed by Jonathan Anderson, the brand’s creative director. The line is “inspired by iconic looks from the LOEWE archives,” per the release. It’s available in select Neiman Marcus stores and on the company’s app, by text messaging and e-commerce platforms, as well as through remote selling via the store’s style advisors.
- In 2023, Anderson was given the first-of-its-kind Neiman Marcus Award for Creative Impact in the Field of Fashion as part of a reimagined awards program from the luxury retailer designed “to recognize and amplify breakthrough luminaries in fashion globally.”
Dive Insight:
The collaboration is part of a larger Neiman Marcus strategy to establish itself as a destination store for luxury shoppers.
The retailer has an exclusive U.S. distribution deal with Schiaparelli, for example, and CEO Geoffroy van Raemdonck said at a panel during the ICR conference in January that 90% of the top brands at Neiman Marcus include something unique to the store, such as an exclusive collection or a special activation. Last month, Neiman Marcus gave the 2024 Creative Impact award to Daniel Roseberry, the creative director of Schiaparelli.
For the Loewe collaboration, Anderson leaned into the luxury house’s history. It features classic styles such as a belted suede trench coat, leather trousers, a polo dress, Loewe’s anagram baggy jeans and the house’s “iconic Obi belt in orange leather,” per the release.
“Jonathan Anderson’s passion for craftsmanship and storytelling is evident in his extraordinary creations, positioning LOEWE as a culturally relevant, thought-provoking house,” Lana Todorovich, chief merchandising officer for Neiman Marcus, said in the release. “This collection shows his dedication to creating the unexpected, referencing the house’s archives while projecting a very strong point of view into the future.”
Loewe’s signature anagram design was named the top logo of 2023, according to last year’s Lyst Index Year in Fashion report, which tracks fashion industry trends based on shopper behavior. Loewe also released a short video marketing spot last week featuring Dan Levy and Aubrey Plaza at a spelling bee that addresses the spelling and pronunciation of the brand’s name.
“For over a decade, Jonathan Anderson has revitalized LOEWE, bringing great commercial success to the house and establishing himself as one of the most powerful names in luxury fashion today,” Ryan Ross, president of the Neiman Marcus brand and head of NMG customer insights, said in the release. “We are proud to partner with LOEWE through our Awards platform to bring customers this extraordinary collection and exclusive experiences.”
Archival styles are becoming increasingly popular with consumers. Vintage pieces continue to show up at awards shows and drive trends on the runways, and luxury resale platform Vestiaire relaunched its archival collection of more than 250,000 items last week. In 2023, relaunches were announced for 1980s brand Adrienne Landau and 1970s fashion brand Walter Albini.
Meanwhile, Neiman Marcus, which also owns luxury retailer Bergdorf Goodman and the off-price Last Call stores, has been rebuilding. The company filed for bankruptcy in May 2020 near the start of the COVID-19 pandemic, only to exit chapter 11 as a private company later that year. Since then, it’s been revamping its digital strategy and restructuring its workforce as part of a corporate realignment strategy announced last year.
Rumors have also swirled since 2020 that rival department store brand Saks Fifth Avenue is looking to acquire the brand. Those rumors surfaced again last week. Neither company immediately responded to Fashion Dive’s requests for comment on the rumors.