As the luxury industry continues to wade through a slowdown that could last years, establishing a strong brand presence has become essential.
That’s why it can be challenging for a label to lose its creative director, especially ahead of the international fashion shows that began in January in Milan and will run through the end of March.
Fortunately, the industry loves to gossip, and with a handful of high-profile designers currently without jobs, the rumor mill has kicked into high gear. Hedi Slimane, Walter Chiappoini and John Galliano are all potentially available to helm brands, as is Pierpaolo Piccioli.
Meanwhile, the list of brands that need creative directors has expanded since last year, and it’s likely more changes are ahead in 2025.
Proenza Schouler
Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, the founding designers of New York-based label Proenza Schouler, announced they would step down from the brand, according to multiple media outlets including WWD.
The privately held company was founded in 2002 and appointed Shira Suveyke Snyder its new CEO in October 2024. However, the company has never had creative directors apart from McCollough and Hernandez, and no successor has been named.
As of press time, the New York-based label is not listed on the official schedule for New York Fashion Week’s fall-winter 2025 shows, which are scheduled to run from Feb. 6 to Feb. 11.
Carven
In December, Louise Trotter announced she was stepping down as creative director at Icicle-owned Carven, a role she had held since February 2023.
Trotter, who will take on the creative director position at Kering-owned Bottega Veneta at the end of January, replaces Matthieu Blazy, who will become Chanel’s new artistic director of fashion, overseeing haute couture, ready-to-wear and accessories.
Prior to Trotter, Serge Ruffieux spent about 18 months as Carven’s creative director. He left the position in 2018, and it remained empty until Trotter stepped in.
Trotter’s successor has not been announced.
Phillip Lim
Phillip Lim said in November that he was stepping down as creative director of the privately owned namesake brand 3.1 Phillip Lim, which he co-founded in 2005 with Wen Zhou.
Lim’s New York Fashion Week spring-summer 2025 presentation was the last for the label, which has never had another creative director.
A successor has not been named, and there is no show scheduled for the New York-based brand on the CFDA’s fall-winter 2025 calendar.
Maison Margiela
At the end of 2024, designer John Galliano announced he would leave his post as creative director of OTB-owned Maison Margiela after 10 years with the label.
When Galliano joined the company, his hire was seen as controversial, following racist and anti-semetic remarks in 2011 that led to his dismissal as creative director at LVMH-owned Christian Dior.
Nonetheless, Galliano’s work at Maison Margiela provided the designer with a kind of redemptive arc, leading to both critical and financial success for the brand.
A successor has not been named.
Fendi
Designer Kim Jones was the artistic director of couture and womenswear of LVMH-owned Fendi from 2020 to 2024. Since his departure in October, the Italy-based house has not had anyone in the top design role, although Delfina Delettrez Fendi remains in her role as artistic director of the brand’s jewelry division.
Silvia Venturini Fendi, who was named artistic director of Fendi’s accessories and menswear divisions in 1994, is expected to present a co-ed collection in February to celebrate the brand’s 100th anniversary, according to multiple sources including WWD.
Jones remains in his position as men’s artistic director of LVMH-owned Dior.
Supreme
Although Dan Connor has long been listed as design director for streetwear brand Supreme, the company has been without a creative director since the exit of Denim Tears founder Tremaine Emory in August 2023.
At the time of his departure, Emory’s posts on Instagram said he left “because of systemic racial issues,” particularly stemming from a canceled collaboration with artist Arthur Jafa.
VF Corp. sold Supreme to luxury eyewear company EssilorLuxottica for $1.5 billion in July 2024 after speculations that the brand was on the chopping block following revenue declines.
However, apart from various collaborations in 2024, including capsules with VF-owned brands The North Face and Timberland, Supreme has kept a relatively low profile and has not yet named a successor for Emory.
