New York Fashion Week’s fall-winter 2025 collections were presented at multiple venues across the city from Feb. 6 to Feb. 11. However, a snowstorm, a recent presidential election and a less crowded calendar made for a somewhat subdued start to ready-to-wear fashion month.
This month, 79 shows were listed on the Council of Fashion Designers of America calendar for the week, compared to 87 shows listed in September. That said, fall-winter almost always offers a lighter schedule than spring-summer. Plus, with the number of off-calendar and otherwise unofficial events, it can be hard to tell how many shows there actually were.
Nonetheless, the mood was decidedly different, with last season’s celebration of American fashion replaced by comfort clothing that hinted at self-care. Many big names were notably absent, including Willy Chavarria, who showed in Paris, and Proenza Schouler, which just saw the exit of its creative directors. Tommy Hilfiger and Ralph Lauren also chose not to show this time around.
Newcomers always step in, though, and this season hosted the return of PVH-owned Calvin Klein, which presented its first collection under creative director Veronica Leoni. Several designers also made their official calendar debuts, injecting the shows with fresh perspectives and some of the independent spirit that defines the city’s fashion scene.
Here are some of the standout trends from the New York collections.
Keep it simple
Keeping things simple in a complex world was a big trend for fall-winter 2025. However, the monochrome palette and relaxed, easy looks were not so much minimalist as they were wearable.
Derek Lam offered up pastels and neutrals by way of suits and slip dresses, while Kallmeyer showed a draped and relaxed collection of mostly office-appropriate suits and separates. Sergio Hudson’s glamorous outfits came in effortless shapes and shades of mint, baby pink, yellow and blue.
Brandon Maxwell sent turtlenecks, zip-front sweaters and striped button-up shirts down the catwalk, paired with midi skirts and pockets galore.
Then there was Calvin Klein, where Leoni's debut featured a clean-lined American sportswear collection of modest knee-length skirts, quiet suits, trench coats, understated separates and occasional elongated sleeves.
Protective coatings
Clothing was designed to help people feel safe from the elements and even the world in general. Pieces evoked pillow forts, piles of duvets and fuzzy, homemade sweaters.
At Collina Strada and Coach, there were pajama-adjacent dresses over loose pants, with the latter also offering coordinating bunny and teddy bear slippers. Meanwhile, Luar offered facemasks and tops that resembled fabric shields.
Eckhaus Latta also showed dresses over pants and paired roomy trousers with big, distressed sweaters, and Altuzzara featured coats and jackets made from fur and shearling and finished with pouf hems and high collars. Prabal Gurung’s fur coats were the size and shape of sleeping bags.
Tough as leather
No material blends rock star swagger with utilitarian durability like leather, which was confidently displayed across multiple runways.
At Khaite, the material made its way into skirts, jackets, opera gloves, coats and pants alongside slightly wilder leopard prints. Michael Kors offered leather jackets and shearling coats paired with extra-long belts.
Tyler McGillivary opened her show with a bright yellow vegan leather coat, and Jonathan Simkhai paired his ruby, black and gray leathers with distressed sweaters. Kim Shui offered snakeskin and leopard printed vegan leather and furs.
At Christian Siriano, vinyl and leather-like materials in gold, black, bright red and shiny embossed patterns made the trend suitable for the red carpet.
Glam rock
Taking a page from the past, some collections embodied a quirky-yet-relaxed blend of furs, sequins and mixed patterns and textures that defined some of the best-dressed musicians in the 1970s.
The trend took a boho turn at Ulla Johnson, who showed gilded pieces and florals, while at Diotima, designer Rachel Scott offered up crocheted caplets and enormous fluffy collars.
Anna Sui paired patterned pants and purple suits with leopard collars and coats, while Frederick Anderson featured black lace and zebra prints. At an otherwise equine-centric show, TWP tossed in a gold sequined jumpsuit, a floor-length fur-trimmed shearling coat, satin suits and wide leather pants. Maria McManus also offered a few glam touches with her cozy collection, including floor-sweeping scarves, lacey tops and a sweater with extravagantly long fringe.
Drama club
Experimentation is core to the heart of New York’s fashion scene. Although many designers, including Tory Burch and Wes Gordon, of Carolina Herrera, kept it safe with wearable, sellable sportswear, there were still bright spots of color and playful silhouettes that stood in bold defiance of fashion’s norms.
Marc Jacobs started the week with an off-calendar show featuring lady-like clothes that were expanded with puffed out proportions. Colleen Allen, formerly of The Row, showed cheeky crinoline underwear beneath a structured velvet coat, while official NYFW calendar newcomer Gabe Gordon showed grandma-esque innerwear as outerwear along with knit baby bonnets. Zoe Gustavia Anna Whalen, who was previously with Eckhaus Latta, presented her first official on-calendar fashion week show as performance art and featured pieces inspired by historical body modification and enhanced with bustles made from old silver plates.
Christopher John Rogers returned to the NYFW schedule with a vivid collection full of ribbons and flounced skirts featuring wide swaths of red, turquoise, yellow and olive green.
Thom Browne, who dressed musician Doechii at the Grammys, closed out NYFW with an ornithology-themed show that offered tailored looks with stretched-out shoulders, exaggerated proportions, patchwork details and plenty of plaid.
